Vienna Journal, Part 2

More random notes and observations from Your Man in Vienna:

-- It is amazing to me to note that Germanic formality still holds here. Shopkeepers are proper and cordial, but never friendly or funny. People greet each other formally and maintain strict adherence to the rules, even if the parties meeting have purple mohawks and multiple piercings. No matter how hot it gets (and, wow, is it hot) one remains in one’s suit and tie and never mentions the fact that it is stifling.

-- I’m beginning to see how it is that a bad heat wave can kill people in Europe. It’s not just that Europe uses less energy per capita than the United States. From that fact one can erroneously conclude, as I had, that Europe of course had the capacity for large-scale energy usage at U.S. levels but simply did not do so. The reality is that Vienna is simply not wired for massive air conditioning use the way we are wired up at home. Even if everyone wanted to crank up the air units, there are no powerful air units wired up to be cranked. Most homes and businesses simply have no air conditioning. Those that do have very weak units that, at best, bring a room from unbearable to tolerable. The only exception is a few supermarkets, and even there it is hit and miss.

-- Speaking of energy, it is a source of continual amazement to see the many little things the Austrians do to try to conserve it and other resources. Escalators move at a snail’s pace until someone steps on it, whereupon it returns to normal speed. Lights everywhere are on a timer or motion-sensor activated. Vehicles are generally much smaller, yet manage to do the same job, even construction vehicles. Street lights are powerful and are hung over the street, rather than on posts at the side, illuminating the streets much more efficiently. Toilets come with wall-mounted flush controls with a smaller press button sitting within a larger press button. For number one, press the small button and get a small, but efficient, flush. For number two, the larger button and get a very large flush.

-- Despite understanding this, and also understanding that the Austians are not fanatics on the subject—they use plenty of energy and resources—I still find myself wanting to find the “ON” switch and cooling down. Life here is much more uncomfortable, much more earthy, than our more sheltered life in America. Sometimes, stuff stinks here from being in the heat or enclosed in tight spaces. Sometimes, you have to sweat like a pig, because it is hot. Sometimes, the light is a bit dim and you have to watch your step. It makes sense to me, and it seems to me to be a better system overall, but it rubs against my American expectations in the worst way.

-- We took our first trip out of Vienna, to Salzburg. Driving here on the major highway was amazing. The highway was high-tech, and passed through some really amazing country, though not as pretty as Pennsylvania or even South New Jersey. However, driving in town is next to impossible. Signage is lacking, the streets wind every which way and after awhile one cannot tell the difference in the time required to decide to turn between Schottengasse and Selennergasse. Next time: the train. And I’m not just saying that because I tore off the rear bumper of the rental car while backing up.

-- Yes, we took the optional insurance when renting the car. Thank God.

-- The fortress in Salzburg (the Festung Hohensalzburg) was absolutely amazing. Up on top of that massive castle, one could see the entire river basin for miles around, the land there being mostly flat and green with these impossible lonely stone crags sticking straight up into the sky to about 1500 feet or so. It is on these crags that the Church and the nobility placed fortified places, the largest of which is the main fortification of Salzburg itself. As one stood on the watchtower and gazed the green meadows and farms in the valley, one could very well imagine one’s whole life being in this valley, ruled by the spiritual and temporal lord, the Archbishop of Salzburg. The many men who held that title ruled that land, and kept it independent, from the late 14th Century until Napoleon’s capture of the city (without fighting) in 1805. It is today a state of the federal republic of Austria.

-- The food here is great, but the problem is that there is very little in the way of variety. Even ethnic food places, like Chinese food, have been heavily “Austrianized.” That is, everything is fried, saucy and heavy. It does get tiring after awhile, especially since all the locals are so damn fit and thin. Also, interestingly, while the local sausages are fantastic, the locals put nothing but ketchup on them...not a drop of mustard to be found. I have been directed to Bavaria if I want mustard with my wurst.

-- Have you ever heard of Amdudler? It’s a popular local soft drink that is a mix of grape juice, apple juice and, suspiciously, local “herbs.” It is a HUGE hit with my kids, who now prefer it over even Coca-Cola. It also comes in a very nice and very heavy old-school glass bottle, with a white painted label.

-- Like in Paris, pizza here becomes “Texan” or “Californian” by adding kernel corn as a topping. How this ever got to be “Californian” is beyond me!

-- Working with the United Nations has been an amazing experience, in both the good and bad sense. I am seriously considering starting my old blog back up, now that it is relevant again, just so I can discuss it...with no one!

Best to you all, and happy Bastille Day!